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Two Wild Hearts and a Camper. A Mother–Son Journey and the Art of Letting Go
Day 1 – The Adventure Begins
🧭 Matei’s Journal:
Plane from Zürich to Reykjavík.
Picked up the car at KuKu Campers.
Drove to Reykjavík Eco Campsite.
We were starving, so we ordered pizza.
We had a good sleep and enjoyed our first night in the campervan.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
This trip started as a Christmas gift for my son, Matei — a “trip with mom anywhere in Europe or Switzerland.” His sister Daria got the same gift, she travels to Paris and London with dad.
After three days of deep thinking, endless map scrolling, and more options than a travel agency, Matei gave his verdict: Iceland.
I couldn’t have been happier with his choice — wild nature, unpredictable weather, waterfalls, and volcanoes. It felt like an adventure made for us. After ten months of careful planning (yes, all by him — routes, timing, even some camp choices), the day finally came.
We landed in Reykjavík, picked up our KuKu Campervan, and it immediately felt like stepping into freedom. KuKu is such a vibe — laid-back, funny, and totally unpretentious. Their vans are covered with quirky art and Icelandic humor; you instantly know you’re part of something fun.
We drove to the Reykjavík Eco Campsite, our home for the first night.
By then, we were starving, so we ordered pizza, laughed at the camper’s tiny kitchen setup, and ended the day wrapped in our sleeping bags, listening to the soft Icelandic rain.
That first night felt like pressing “play” on a story we’d both been waiting to live.
💡 Mom’s Tip:
Don’t over-plan the first day. Travel days are for landing, laughing, and letting go of expectations. Order pizza, unpack slowly, and let the adventure find its own rhythm.
- 📍 Next stop: Snæfellsnes Peninsula — waterfalls, wild horses, and Iceland’s most famous mountain: Kirkjufell.
Day 2 – Waterfalls, Wild Horses & The Best Fish Stew Ever
🧭 Matei’s Journal:
With the car to Grundarfjörður.
We watched Grundarfoss and Kirkjufellfoss.
Played with the wild horses.
In the evening we went to a restaurant called Harbour Café and ate a lot of lamb and Plokkfiskur – the traditional Icelandic fish stew.
We slept in our camper at Grundarfjörður Campsite.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
We woke up early, ready to hit the road north toward Grundarfjörður, that dreamy little town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula that looks straight out of a fairytale. The drive itself was already breathtaking — mossy lava fields, dramatic cliffs, and that moody Icelandic light that makes you whisper wow every ten minutes.
Our first stop was Grundarfoss, a tall waterfall just a short hike from the road. And right there, by the path, we met a group of wild Icelandic horses. They stood in the mist like something from a legend — calm, curious, and absolutely stunning.
We approached slowly, and one came right up to us, sniffing Matei’s jacket and letting him touch its mane. Watching him stand there — gentle, patient, glowing with excitement — was one of those moments that just freeze time.
Then we drove to Kirkjufellfoss, probably the most photographed waterfall in Iceland, with Mount Kirkjufell rising perfectly behind it. And yes, it really is that perfect.
By evening, we were cold and hungry, so we found Harbour Café, a cozy little spot by the sea. Matei ordered lamb like a proper Viking, and I had Plokkfiskur, a creamy, comforting fish stew that tastes like the ocean decided to give you a hug.
We parked the camper at Grundarfjörður Campsite, with the sea on one side and the mountain on the other. That night, we checked the aurora forecast — again. It looked promising, but the clouds had other plans. Iceland was clearly teaching us the art of patience.. The sound of rain on the van roof, a full belly, and that quiet satisfaction of a day well lived — that’s how we ended our night.
💡 Mom’s Tip:
If you stop at Grundarfoss, walk halfway up the trail — the wild horses often graze right there. Move slowly, let them come to you. They’re gentle, proud, and absolutely worth the pause.
- 📍 Next stop: Stykkishólmur — colorful fishing houses, lava cliffs, and the edge of the magical Snæfellsjökull National Park.
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Two Wild Hearts and a
Camper.
A Mother–Son
Journey and the Art of
Letting Go
Day 1 – The Adventure Begins
Matei’s Journal:
– Plane from Zürich to Reykjavík.
– Picked up the car at KuKu Campers.
– Drove to Reykjavík Eco Campsite.
– We were starving, so we ordered pizza.
– We had a good sleep and enjoyed our first night in the campervan.
Mom’s Tip:
Don’t over-plan the first day. Travel days are for landing, laughing, and letting go of expectations. Order pizza, unpack slowly, and let the adventure find its own rhythm.
Next stop: Snæfellsnes Peninsula
waterfalls, wild horses, and Iceland’s most famous mountain: Kirkjufell.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
This trip started as a Christmas gift for my son, Matei — a “trip with mom anywhere in Europe or Switzerland.” His sister Daria got the same gift, she travels to Paris and London with dad.
After three days of deep thinking, endless map scrolling, and more options than a travel agency, Matei gave his verdict: Iceland.
I couldn’t have been happier with his choice — wild nature, unpredictable weather, waterfalls, and volcanoes. It felt like an adventure made for us. After ten months of careful planning (yes, all by him — routes, timing, even some camp choices), the day finally came.
We landed in Reykjavík, picked up our KuKu Campervan, and it immediately felt like stepping into freedom. KuKu is such a vibe — laid-back, funny, and totally unpretentious. Their vans are covered with quirky art and Icelandic humor; you instantly know you’re part of something fun.
We drove to the Reykjavík Eco Campsite, our home for the first night.
By then, we were starving, so we ordered pizza, laughed at the camper’s tiny kitchen setup, and ended the day wrapped in our sleeping bags, listening to the soft Icelandic rain.
That first night felt like pressing “play” on a story we’d both been waiting to live.
Day 2 – Waterfalls, Wild
Horses & The Best Fish
Stew Ever
Matei’s Journal:
– With the car to Grundarfjörður.
– We watched Grundarfoss and Kirkjufellfoss.
– Played with the wild horses.
– In the evening we went to a restaurant called Harbour Café and ate a lot
– of lamb and Plokkfiskur – the traditional Icelandic fish stew.
– We slept in our camper at Grundarfjörður Campsite.
Mom’s Tip:
If you stop at Grundarfoss, walk halfway up the trail — the wild horses often graze right there. Move slowly, let them come to you. They’re gentle, proud, and absolutely worth the pause.
Next stop: Stykkishólmur colorful fishing houses, lava cliffs, and the edge of
the magical Snæfellsjökull National Park.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
We woke up early, ready to hit the road north toward Grundarfjörður, that dreamy little town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula that looks straight out of a fairytale. The drive itself was already breathtaking — mossy lava fields, dramatic cliffs, and that moody Icelandic light that makes you whisper wow every ten minutes.
Our first stop was Grundarfoss, a tall waterfall just a short hike from the road. And right there, by the path, we met a group of wild Icelandic horses. They stood in the mist like something from a legend — calm, curious, and absolutely stunning.
We approached slowly, and one came right up to us, sniffing Matei’s jacket and letting him touch its mane. Watching him stand there — gentle, patient, glowing with excitement — was one of those moments that just freeze time.
Then we drove to Kirkjufellfoss, probably the most photographed waterfall in Iceland, with Mount Kirkjufell rising perfectly behind it. And yes, it really is that perfect.
By evening, we were cold and hungry, so we found Harbour Café, a cozy little spot by the sea. Matei ordered lamb like a proper Viking, and I had Plokkfiskur, a creamy, comforting fish stew that tastes like the ocean decided to give you a hug.
We parked the camper at Grundarfjörður Campsite, with the sea on one side and the mountain on the other. That night, we checked the aurora forecast — again. It looked promising, but the clouds had other plans. Iceland was clearly teaching us the art of patience.. The sound of rain on the van roof, a full belly, and that quiet satisfaction of a day well lived — that’s how we ended our night.
Day 3 – Hot Springs, Cold Plunges & A Brave Little Viking &
A Brave Little Viking
Matei’s Journal:
– Had coffee at Valeria Café.
– Drove to Húsafell.
– Saw Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls.
– Cooked fish with salad in nature.
– Went to Húsafell Hotel & Camping hot pool.
– Did cold plunges (4°C)! Mom drank prosecco in the warm pool.
Mom’s Tip:
Always pack a swimsuit — Iceland is basically one big spa. Cold plunges optional, prosecco recommended.
Next stop: Lava caves and the northern town of Akureyri.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
The morning started with the smell of good coffee and crisp air. Valeria Café, a tiny roastery in Grundarfjörður, served Colombian beans roasted on site — a taste of warmth before the road to Húsafell.
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss were breathtaking — turquoise streams flowing out of lava like threads of glass. We cooked fish by the river, laughing as the wind tried to steal our napkins.
Then came one of my favorite moments: the hot pool at Húsafell Hotel & Camping. Matei tested his “Viking blood” with multiple 4°C cold plunges while the adults watched, impressed.
Me? I conquered the pool prosecco instead.
Day 4 – Into the Lava & The
Northern Town
Matei’s Journal:
– Breakfast in the car.
Visited Víðgelmir lava cave.
– Drove to Akureyri.
– Ate at Bautinn Restaurant.
– Visited Götubarinn Pub (Mom had beer, I had apple juice).
– Slept at Camping Hamrar.
Mom’s Tip:
Icelandic pubs are community hubs — stop for one drink, stay for the stories.
Next stop: Whales, fishing, and hot lagoons.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
Breakfast in the car has become our ritual — a sandwich, hot cocoa, and Iceland rolling past our window.
Our first stop: Víðgelmir, one of Iceland’s biggest lava caves. Helmets, headlamps, echoes — it felt like exploring the Earth’s lungs.
The road north was cinematic: endless valleys, hidden waterfalls, and skies that never sit still.
In Akureyri, we dined at Bautinn, a beloved local spot where every table starts with fresh, free glacier water. Afterwards, we visited Götubarinn, a lively pub full of laughter and Icelandic conversation. Matei sipped his juice with pride while I sampled a local IPA — strictly research.
We ended the day at Camping Hamrar, overlooking the city and its tiny airport lights.
Day 5 – Whales, Fish & Forest
Lagoons
Matei’s Journal:
– Early breakfast.
– Whale watching in Hauganes — saw 11 whales!
– Went fishing — caught 3 fish!
– Ate fish & chips.
– Relaxed at Forest Lagoon.
– Drove to Húsavík Hostel.
Mom’s Tip:
Choose Hauganes for whale watching — smaller boats, quieter groups, deeper magic. And if the ocean wants to show you something rare, just say thank you.
📍 Next stop: Húsavík again — because once the whales open the door, you go back.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
There are days when Iceland feels like an ancient being that decides to let you in. Today was one of those days.
We took a wooden boat from Hauganes, guided by locals who knew the sea like an old friend. The air smelled of salt and quiet mystery. And then — they appeared.
Humpback whales.
Not just one. Not two.
At least eleven.
Massive, gentle, slow-moving giants surfacing with the kind of grace that makes your chest tighten. Their exhale sounded like someone opening a cathedral door of air. Their backs shimmered black and silver. Their tails lifted like calligraphy strokes across the ocean.
The guide told us:
“Seeing this many together is rare. Humpbacks usually travel alone or in pairs.”
But maybe Matei has this energy.
He attracts good moments the way some people attract stray cats.
The universe seems to say: “Here. This one is for you.”
We learned that humpbacks can live up to 80 years, migrate thousands of kilometers, and yet return to the exact same fjord to feed each summer. There is something sacred in that memory. A loyalty to place. A knowing.
After the whales, Matei tried fishing — and of course, he caught three. Effortlessly. Like the fish simply volunteered.
Lunch was simple fish & chips from a small shack near the pier — salty, crispy, perfect. And then we drifted into the warm embrace of Forest Lagoon, hot water steaming under tall pine trees, the kind of silence that feels like someone is exhaling your soul for you.
By the evening, we drove to Húsavík Hostel, tired in the best way — skin salty, hair wind-tangled, hearts full.
The kind of day that writes itself into memory.
Day 6 – Double Whales &
Double Laughter
Matei’s Journal:
– Slept at Húsavík Hostel.
– Breakfast at a bistro.
– Whale watching again — this time on a speedboat!
– Chilled at Herna Café.
– Dinner with fish soup and fish of the day.
Mom’s Tip:
Do both whale tours — the wooden boat for peace, the speedboat for thrill.
Next stop: Mývatn’s geothermal fields and the road to Seyðisfjörður.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
Sleeping in a real bed felt like a five-star upgrade. We joined Gentle Giants for a second whale adventure — this time on a speedboat that danced across the waves.
The whales came so close we could feel the spray. Power, grace, awe.
Afterwards, we found Herna Café, a cozy gem with good coffee and gentle music. Matei went to rest while I stayed for what I call local craft research.
Dinner was a warm, quiet affair — fish soup, fish of the day, laughter. Matei even set the table before I arrived, knowing his mom might need a little hydration after her “research.”
Day 7 – From Sulfur Smells to
Storybook Streets
Matei’s Journal:
– Best sleep ever.
– Stopped at Mývatn — smelled terrible.
– Mom took too many photos.
– Cake and chat with a Romanian guy at Beitarhúsio Café.
– Visited Stuðlafoss waterfall and Stuðlagil Canyon.
– Scary foggy drive to Seyðisfjörður.
– Pizza and wine at Skaftfell Bistro.
– Slept in an old hospital guesthouse.
Mom’s Tip:
Don’t fear Icelandic fog — it hides the most beautiful arrivals.
Next stop: Seyðisfjörður’s artsy hills and an unforgettable mistake.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
Mývatn smelled like rotten eggs and magic. Matei hated it, I loved it.
We stumbled on Beitarhúsio Café, a tiny western-style café in the middle of nowhere, where we met a Romanian guy and shared cake. Iceland has a way of serving strangers like plot twists.
Then we visited Stuðlafoss and Stuðlagil Canyon — towering basalt columns carved by centuries of water. The drive that followed, through dense fog on Route 85 and 87, was pure nerve.
But Seyðisfjörður awaited like a painting — blue houses, waterfalls, art everywhere. We had the best pizza and wine at Skaftfell Bistro and slept deeply in Halfdan Guesthouse, once a hospital.
Day 8 – The Humming Hills &
The Benzin Disaster
Matei’s Journal:
– Walked around Seyðisfjörður.
– Looked for an imaginary snowman.
– Played on a broken bridge by the fjord.
– Hiked to Tvísöngur and hummed inside.
– Shared a burger and cake.
– Put Benzin instead of Diesel.
– Waited two hours for help.
– Drove through fog to Höfn.
– Slept at a soggy campsite and ate microwaved food.
Mom’s Tip:
If you can laugh about it later, it’s already a good story. And always, always double-check the fuel pump.
Next stop: Vatnajökull — the blue ice caves of dreams.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
A slow morning turned into a comedy of errors — but first, it was pure magic.
We wandered Seyðisfjörður, that little fairytale fjord where time slows down and everything feels like a painting. Before the chaos, we spent hours just being.
We played by the shore on an old broken bridge, balancing on weathered wood while the tide whispered underneath. We stopped by a small waterfall on the path, dipped our hands in, and drank straight from it — cold, pure, alive. Iceland water always tastes like it remembers glaciers.
Then we hiked up to Tvísöngur, a sound sculpture made of five concrete domes standing quietly on the mountainside — each tuned to a tone from the Icelandic five-note harmony.
Inside, the acoustics wrap around you — every whisper becomes a chord. We sang, hummed, and laughed, moving from dome to dome as our voices bounced back in perfect harmony. For a moment, the whole mountain sang with us. It felt like pure connection — between us, the place, and something bigger.
And then, Iceland humbled us again. At the gas station, in our cozy fog of bliss, we filled the camper with Benzin instead of Diesel.
Two hours, one tow truck, and a patient mechanic later, we were back on the road, shaking our heads and laughing at ourselves.
We drove through fog and rain to Höfn, hungry, wet, and tired. The campsite was muddy, the food microwaved, and the mood surprisingly light. Because somehow, even when things went wrong, Iceland made it feel right.
Day 9 – Into the Blue Ice
(and the Yellow Bus Café)
Matei’s Journal:
– Early start for Vatnajökull.
– Three-hour ice cave tour — bumpy ride, hike, crampons.
– Saw the Blue Ice Cave!
– Visited the American School Bus Café.
– Ate fries and chocolate with coffee.
– Tried to fly in a Cessna but weather was bad.
– Cooked fish at dark campsite.
Mom’s Tip:
Never underestimate Iceland’s roadside surprises — sometimes the best café is a yellow bus in the middle of a glacier field.
Next stop: The sky. Literally. Finally flying the Cessna and chasing northern lights.
Ruxi’s Reflection:
Today felt otherworldly from the start. We joined a morning tour at Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe — a place that feels alive, breathing cold air into the valley. The ride to the base camp was long and bumpy, but when we finally stepped onto the ice, the world went silent.
Crampons on, cheeks pink from the wind, we hiked into the Blue Ice Cave — an ethereal tunnel of glass-blue light. Every step echoed like walking through frozen time. The air shimmered. It was impossible not to feel small, grateful, and utterly human.
After hours in the cold, we were ready for something warm — and that’s when we found the most unexpected gem: the American School Bus Café.
A bright yellow bus parked in the middle of nowhere, run by a Romanian couple who turned it into a roadside café serving espresso, hot chocolate, and fries so good they could heal frostbite. The owner’s energy was contagious — funny, warm, the kind of person who instantly feels like an old friend. Hearing our mother tongue there, surrounded by glaciers, felt like a wink from the universe.
We sipped coffee, laughed about coincidences, and refueled before heading back to Jökulsárlón, where the icebergs floated like silent sculptures. The sky cleared just enough for us to catch their reflections in the still water.
Later, we tried to book a Cessna flight over the glacier, but the pilot shook his head — visibility too low. So we parked in a nearby campsite, cooked fish on the gas stove, and listened to the wind hum through the dark. No electricity, no lights — just us, the stars, and the quiet satisfaction of being exactly where we were meant to be.
